Every night is a fiesta at El Presidente in Union Market

You spot the party from a block away, thanks to the spumoni colors of the awning on the patio. As you get closer, the sounds of laughter and mariachi act like a magnet, practically pulling you toward the latest restaurant to surface near Union Market. The first door opens to a smart icy-green foyer, a trailer before the main attraction. The second door, set off with fancy metal handles and frosted glass, leads to a host stand and a swarm of staff who look thrilled to have you for dinner.

is graced with a flotilla of chandeliers and a vivid painting of mountains as the sun sets. Quite the stages for comforts spanning chicken enchiladas and queso fundido — the best in town, a molten mass of cheese and mushrooms scattered with toasted quinoa and served with a scroll of excellent flour tortillas.Starr says he cares about offering “great food, but I wanted El Presidente to be fun,” too. Following the pandemic, “people want to have a good time, get a little crazy.

Listening to some staff talk up the mezcals feels like a master class. The drinks call for sponges, and the menu obliges with the expected guacamole and tortilla soup and the less common: oysters, monster prawns, crab and lobster displayed on ice in front of the semi-open kitchen and meant to evoke a marisquería, or seafood restaurant.

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