Bar wars: In Ukraine, the Aperol Spritz faces backlash over Campari’s Russia business

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One bar has renamed its “White Russian” cocktail a “Dead Russian” and donates all proceeds from purchases of it to the Ukrainian military.

The Aperol Spritz is so popular that the cocktail is practically synonymous with summer in Europe, where connoisseurs cram onto patios and around bar tops to guzzle down the bubbly, orange aperitif.

Giving up the Spritz altogether is out of the question - Ukrainian fans love the cocktail. So, Squat 17B and other bars got rid of Aperol and are serving an alternative made with comparable orange spirits from other Italian companies instead. But such statements are seen by many in Ukraine as platitudes. Russia - along with Italy, Germany, France and the United States - is one of the group’s “core markets” for sales of Aperol. In 2022, the group’s overall sales in Russia and Ukraine amounted to about 3 percent of its total.

Goodwine did not previously work with Bacardi, he said, but has written off any possibility of working with the company in the future and is “actively working to exclude” other brands with ties to Russia.Some alcohol brands that didn’t quickly withdraw from Russia are now facing difficulties. Last month, after the Danish beer maker Carlsberg Group announced plans to sell its assets in Russia to an unnamed buyer, Moscow seized control of eight of its breweries and 8400 of its employees.

When the bar reopened for business in spring 2022, it consulted with other bars in Kyiv about the links of liquor companies to Russia, she said. It was then that managers opted to stop buying from Campari and Bacardi.In August, as at Squat 17B, customers sipping bubbly orange drinks on their patio were drinking spirits from Italian company Luxardo - not Aperol. Pure & Naive later switched to a different alternative, called Gamondi.

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