Olivier Saillard Fashions Couture One-Offs From Mass-Market Suits, Shirts, and Tees

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Olivier Saillard hopes to establish a practice where the masters of couture would transmit the secrets of their craft to a new generation.

on that institution’s impressive exhibition program , was selling himself short. His astoundingly imaginative Moda Povera collections, which are built around the idea of repurposing inexpensive pieces of clothing—over-scale cotton t-shirts found on the internet, for instance, or men’s white shirts—with couture workmanship, prove that Saillard is no fashion dilettante.

This season he sleuthed a collection of low-priced size 8XL men’s suits from the mass market retailer Kiabi in black synthetic fiber .

Saillard repurposes inexpensive pieces of clothing—like the large men’s shirt here—with couture workmanship. Photo: Yannis VlamosThe remarkable Doué appeared in one of Saillard’s fashion history performance pieces, where she recalled Madame Grès’s injunction during fittings that her legendary draped jersey dresses should “kiss the floor” and sat at Doué’s feet to ensure they did just that.

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