EXCLUSIVE: A Preview of Paris’ New Spaceship-like Dover Street Market

No window displays — in fact, put all of the merchandise behind curved walls so no clothing is visible from outside, or immediately upon entry — and leave almost half of the sales floor completely empty.

“It’s really a voyage of discovery,” Joffe said as he guided a visitor through the warren of rounded rooms, each with unique fixtures and furniture. “You’ve really gotta look, and I’m sure people are going to miss things.” Like other Dover Street Markets, the new Paris one contains a Rose Bakery, whose 48 seats extend out onto a long terrace overlooking a charming public garden planted with corn; an edgy bookshop stocking titles like “House of Psychotic Women” and “Hex Files: The Goth Bible,” plus a busy basement level dedicated to young designer collections like Jacquemus, Martine Rose and Marine Serre, plus streetwear brands hung on industrial scaffolding lit with colorful fluorescent tubes.

“For her, beauty is most important, and unexpectedness — designing things you’ve never seen before. It’s all her deep values that she hasn’t moved from for 55 years,” Joffe said. “Nothing is what you thought it might be. You know, throwing away half the selling space: Who would have thought of that?”

The unique design of the Paris location of Dover Street Market, with Kawakubo’s architecture and furnishings in close communion with the merchandise, means that events will largely take place away from the retail store: in the courtyard and two large underground spaces that “carry on the spirit of 3537” and “continue that possibility of synergy and accidents and having more to offer the customer,” Joffe said.

Joffe has been upfront that the first Dover Street Market was initially met with many raised eyebrows, and that several subsequent locations operated for years in the red. “Denim Tears, for example, they always have their own spaces and they don’t wholesale. That they were willing to sell to us and be mixed up with everything else is a great sign of trust,” Joffe said.

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