Review: Where there’s smoke, there’s Isidore at Pullman Market

The best food comes with stories. Here’s one about the Berkshire pork chop at Isidore, the newest, the last and the most casually elegant of four full-service restaurants to open this year inside Pullman Market at Pearl.

critic’s all-day guide Now I’ll tell a story of my own, a story about meeting Isidore’s chef de cuisine in 2018. Back then, Ian Lanphear was representing his pop-up restaurant Naibor at the San Antonio Cocktail Conference with a plate whose chalkboard description said, “quail, juniper, pecan, persimmon.” Just that, nothing else.

Dessert for dinner at Nicosi at Pullman Market Oysters don’t work that way, and Isidore understands. A half-dozen Blackjack Point oysters from Port Aransas delivered the density and size we expect from Gulf oysters with the more restrained brine and clean finish of East Coast varieties, all of them plated over ice-cold river rocks for a plate more suited to the restaurant’s earthy color scheme. I’ll say it again: You don’t need horseradish and hot sauce when you’ve got the right oysters.

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