The Fermented Foods Industry Is Built on Global Ingredients. So Why Are Its Most Visible Faces White?

kombucha was in 2010, at a Whole Foods in San Francisco. As I drank the ice-cold bottle of GT’s Multi-Green, I was surprised by how familiar it was: Its sharpness reminded me of long-fermented Taiwanese fruit vinegars and suan cai, while its funk called to mind the diverse array of ferments, such as furu, tempe, belachan, and doubanjiang, that flavored my ’80s Malaysian childhood.

The fermentation industry in the West is dominated by mostly white fermenters, who often sell whitewashed ferments and white-gaze narratives. The community is grounded in reconnecting people to traditional food systems, lost tastes, and microbial heritages. The nuances and complexities of sharing cultures — one’s own and those of others — are something I’ve thought a lot about since joining the community in 2013, when my partner and I started one of Australia’s first tibicos companies.

“...I’ve watched as many of the once-ridiculed ferments of my childhood have been declared not just acceptable, but trendy by white people eager to festishize and commoditize them.” The author needs therapy, not publication. The outrage over on IG about this is justified.

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Source: Reuters - 🏆 2. / 97 Read more »