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Located on the south bank of the River Thames, surrounded by high-rise buildings glinting in the dawn of early winter, the wholesale market is the UK’s largest for fruit, vegetables and flowers. Marshall has been working at the market for over 45 of those years, alongside nearly 200 businesses supplying London’s local grocers, restaurants, hotels and offices.
“Once you’re in it, honestly, you’re in it for life,” said Marshall, who is also chairman of the New Covent Garden Tenants Association.The working “day” begins at around 10pm in the evening for some 2,000 people who work at New Covent Garden, with produce arriving from all over Europe and the world.“And then it happens. Then the buzz is on. The market’s alive,” described Marshall, his eyes lit up with pride.
“If you’re here at one, two or three in the morning, it’s like a little city with hundreds and hundreds of people,” said Wanda Goldwag, chair of the Covent Garden Market Authority, which manages New Covent Garden Market.Overnight work hours, in place since a decade to remove daytime commercial traffic in the congested British capital, have made attracting younger generations tricky, according to Marshall.
Now, he mainly comes down to buy flowers, from the bundles of pink-purple hydrangeas to crates of roses and tulips that the CGMA says supply 75 per cent of London’s florists.“So, so many of us buy our food from supermarkets now. And of course, in tough economic times, everyone is very money conscious,” she said.London’s other main wholesale markets, Smithfield meat market and Billingsgate fish market, face uncertain futures after plans to relocate them were put on hold.
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