Chef Jay Huang will never forget the day he took unagi off the menu at Lucky Robot Japanese Kitchen in Austin. “Several customers lashed out at us. They told me they’d never eat here again,” he says. “But it was a step we had to take.”
From destination restaurants like Noma to chains such as Chipotle, the trend has been toward sourcing produce locally, offering plant-based alternatives and sometimes eliminating red meat altogether. But even decades into the farm-to-table movement, fish overnighted from the other side of the world remains a signal of quality at sushi restaurants across the U.S.
When sushi swept America in the 1980s, one of the trendiest items had no raw fish at all: the California roll. Multiple chefs in Los Angeles and Vancouver claim to have invented the pairing of avocado and cooked crab, with rice encircling the nori to appeal to diners unfamiliar with seaweed. But one thing is clear: It was a huge hit. Soon sushi was being served alongside hot dogs at San Diego Padres games…and just about everywhere else.
Rosella is an unconventional, unapologetically local sushi restaurant. On a cold night in late December, the omakase menu featured steelhead trout from a farm in Hudson, New York, seasoned with a hint of fiery wasabi. Butterflied Louisiana shrimp, lightly cured with salt and sugar, was burnished with a blowtorch, then brushed with soy and shrimp-head-infused chili oil. Fatty arctic char convincingly doubled as salmon.
Many American sushi restaurants use seafood imported from a single company: True World Foods. According to thearound 70%–80% of mid- and high-range sushi restaurants in some U.S. cities buy from True World. In comparison, most of Rosella’s fish comes from local fishmonger Greenpoint Fish and Lobster Company, which works with a network of small domestic fisherman around the country. Some East Coast staples like bluefish and porgy are often maligned as “trash fish,” too bony or fishy to serve.
Twenty-one years ago, chef Bun Lai was walking along the Connecticut shoreline with a Yale undergrad and waiter at his mother’s sushi restaurant, Miya’s, in New Haven, Connecticut. They noticed unfamiliar tiny crabs scuttling around the rocks, caught a bunch, and researched them at a Yale library. Turns out they were Asian shore crabs—an invasive species.
If seafood is to follow in the footsteps of meat, there comes an inevitable question: What is the Impossible Burger of sushi? If seafood is to follow in the footsteps of meat, there comes an inevitable question: What is the Impossible Burger of sushi? In the Hulu show, a company creating cell-grown seafood by cultivating live fish cells in large tanks. They try a piece of cell-grown Coho salmon nigiri. “Delicious,” Chang says, chewing. “You read about it and you’re like, One day…” Ying replies. “I didn’t know it was today.
You just couldn’t avoid the temptation to include the part about eating bugs.
Hey Aliza gtfo
Based on what research! Sushi will survive!
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