NYFW Recap: The Evening Market

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Here, WWD spotlights some of the category’s standouts this season.

So to the garden he went, with florals on a strapless A-line gown that flowed down the runway. There was a lot of white and ivory, little cocktail dresses or a flowing pant with a feather bolero. They felt renewed and exciting. Basso knows his customer, young or old, and he is leaning into an old-school staple, the summer fur. “They aren’t really jackets,” he said, “more like an accessory.

Backstage, Khan cited the flower paintings he began working on during lockdown as his inspiration — not exactly groundbreaking material, but that was to his point: the designer wanted to capture an uncomplicated, playful spirit for spring and he did just that once a few heavy-handed openers in embroidered raffia cleared the runway.

His third collection, titled “Reverie,” was an ode to his dreams, which came through specialty styles, like an ombre watercolor two-piece set with 3D floral appliqués, painstakingly hand-embroidered netted full sequin skirts paired with corset bustiers, shimmering strapless statement gowns, tiered tulle confections and a few alternative nods to bridal.

Mohapatra’s signature silhouettes continues to be visible throughout each season, and this time around the designer successfully blended his artisanal details with an added dose of fluidity.Titled “La Trouvaille,” partners Anthony Cucculelli and Anna Rose Shaheen wanted to take guests on a journey via the runway for spring. Texture, embroideries, fringe – their customer clearly wants to make a statement when she enters a room.

 

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