Review: Alice brings inspired charcoal-fired seasonal cuisine to the Italian Market

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One of the best chefs whose food Philadelphians have eaten but never knew by name has opened a different kind of restaurant for the Italian Market, fueled by charcoal fires and a global pantry.

The coal oven poulet rouge with hakurei turnip and burgundy truffle jus at Alice in Philadelphia, Pa. on Thursday, Sept. 28, 2023. Alice is located at 9th and Christian Streets in the Italian Market.Most new restaurants need a clear identity to succeed. But labels come easier to some projects than others — especially in a neighborhood that stokes preconceptions.

In lesser hands, it could be a non-sensical fusion mess. But the Baltimore-raised Conn, 41, is one of the best chefs whose cooking many Philadelphians have eaten but never knew by name. He worked as a key player behind the scenes for a dozen years with Jose Garces The top of Alice’s menu, partly organized by temperature from cold to hot , is full of bright flavors and seafood.oysters from Barnegat Bay are illuminated by a citrusy cucumber aquachile. Glory Bay salmon crudo is paired with a garlicky puree of sesame ajo blanco and an herbal green matcha sauce steeped from tea sourced from neighboring Function Coffee Labs.

of spontaneous neighborhood appeal, given that the copious sidewalk seating and bar framing the open kitchen already generate a friendly, casual energy.

 

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