From left: Coco Chanel, Rei Kawakubo, Norma Kamali, Mary Quant and Elsa Schiaparelli. Photography: Chanel By Afp Via Getty; Kawakubo By Bernard Weil/'Toronto Star' Via Getty; Kamali By Francesco Da Vinci/Getty; Quant By Arthur Steel/Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty; Schiaparelli By Sasha/Hulton Archive/Getty.
“I think they’re everywhere,” says Mosha Lundström Halbert, a journalist and podcast host who also breaks down the latest fashion headlines on her popular TikTok account. “Women aren’t just behind the scenes; they’re also behind the seams,” she says, alluding to the fact that at most fashion houses, the head seamstress is usually a woman. This all goes back to the roots of handicraft, sewing and dressmaking, which have historically been women’s pursuits.
“It’s very convenient to point fingers at a boardroom of men,” comments Timothy Chernyaev, an L.A. stylist and TikTok fashion critic whose account,, breaks down runway shows and offers commentary on larger industry moves. “But they’re hiring from their competitors’ houses.” It’s true: McGirr worked at JW Anderson; Pieter Mulier and Matthieu Blazy both worked under Raf Simons at Dior and Calvin Klein; and Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, reported to Thom Browne.
For proof, look no further than Philo, who returned with her own line after a six-year hiatus. The pieces — including a simple leather tote priced at $8,000 — sold out almost instantly. “Philo can take however long she wants and still her loyalists will flock because of her work, her reputation and her legacy,” says Lundström Halbert.If you look just beyond the conglomerate-owned luxury labels, women are, in fact, everywhere.
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