Newly minted Michelin-starred chef Arturo Rivera Martinez stood over an insanely hot grill Wednesday at the first Mexican taco stand ever to get a coveted star from the French dining guide, and did exactly the same thing he’s been doing for 20 years: searing meat.
It’s actually more complicated than that. El Califa de Leon is the only taco stand among the 16 Mexican restaurants given one star, as well as two eateries that got two stars. Almost all the rest are pretty darn posh eateries . He tosses a pinch of salt over it, squeezes half a lime on top, and grabs a soft round of freshly rolled tortilla dough onto the solid metal slab to puff up.
The heat is one of the few secrets Rivera Martinez would share. The steel grill has to be heated to an astounding 680 degrees . Asked how it felt to get a Michelin star, he said in classic Mexico City slang, “esta chido … esta padre,” or “it’s neat, it’s cool.”
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