Rick Steves: Village charm along Paris's market streets

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On streets such as Rue des Martyrs, everyday people make cosy communities in the midst of this vast, high-powered, and touristy city

As I dodge Parisians walking their poodles and pushing baby strollers down a busy market street, I’m reminded that one of the reasons Paris is endlessly entertaining is its thriving neighbourhoods. . Along these friendly streets, you find a warm and human vibrancy you’d miss if just hopping from big museum to museum.

Paris is one of the most densely populated cities in Europe, which makes streets like this one particularly lively. Population density is great news for fishmongers, flower merchants, and bakers. In some areas, fishmongers and butchers are being replaced with trendy coffee shops and deli-type restaurants, but a traditional bakery still seems in demand.

Goods spill onto the sidewalk. And locals happily pay more at a shop that’s not part of a chain. The corner charcuterie still sells various meats. But it’s morphed with the times by offering more variety, prepared dishes sold by the weight, and even a few tables so that customers can eat in and linger as well as take out.

About a block away, is the butcher locals head to for top-grade beef. The ceiling hooks — where butchers once hung sides of beef — now display a red medallion that certifies the slaughtered cow’s quality. Freshness is expected.

 

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