The ultimate California roll lives on at this SGV fish market. (Fights at the sushi case prove it.)

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An ode to the secretly best California roll, perfected over two decades at Yama Seafood in the San Gabriel Valley.

Where to find the best supermarket sushi in Los Angeles — seared salmon nigiri, the freshest sashimi platters, hand rolls filled with negitoro and more.Longtime employees such as Moreno still work at the store. Victor Humay, assistant general manager , oversees every aspect of making rolls, which include not just the California kind but also salmon and avocado, spicy tuna, unagi and more — all displayed in the refrigerated cases that line one store wall.

In the beginning, “We sold all kinds of fish, many kinds — squid, sardines, mackerel, plus Japanese grocery,” Moreno said. “But day by day, fish business was shrinking.” The hub of Yama Seafood market in San Gabriel is its fish counter. The store also features a wide selection of sake and artisanal Japanese products such as soy sauce.

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