The fragrance industry is booming. Here’s why it makes scents.

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Americans are reaching for prestige brands like Chanel, Dior and Tom Ford, casting off the idea of a “signature scent” for an aromatic palette of self-expression.

It used to be that a spritz of fragrance was singular to the wearer, a medley of notes both distinct and familiar. Though that dynamic has long influenced sales, powerhouses such as Coty and L’Oréal are seeing a surge as consumers retreat from the notion of having a “signature scent” and treat aroma as a barometer of their moods.

“This is unprecedented in industry,” said Larissa Jensen, a beauty industry analyst at Circana. “Everything that goes up, comes down. … We haven’t seen that yet with fragrance. It’s incredible.”. We spend when we’re feeling good and when we’re feeling down, Jensen said. If the economy is in a slump, we buy a low-ticket luxury to boost our mood.

Plus, people wanted to “smell like a rich person,” said Dominica Baird, chair of the business of beauty and fragrance program at Savannah College of Art and Design. You feel like “you’re in a club” when someone compliments your fragrance, she said. What’s more, prestige lines are attracting more first-time buyers: Coty reported 5 million new customers last year, a 6 percent increase year over year, CEO Sue Nabi said at a retail conference last month. Men added a nice boost to growth, too, she said.

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