It all began with a party dress. Martha Graham, the dancer whose movements and choreography blew a forceful gust of fresh air into 20th-century dance, was looking for something to wear to the 1975 Capezio Dance Awards. Her friend Leo Lerman offered to ring up Halston—and the inquiry catalyzed a decades-long friendship that yielded several artistic collaborations.
Graham had long harnessed the power of costume; her groundbreaking Lamentation famously featured dancers undulating in tubed jersey fabric. “She largely designed the costumes. She really had such a strong, unique vision for what she wanted on stage. She really didn't relinquish it to other people,” says Eilber. “In the beginning of her revolution, she was showcasing women’s torsos.
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