When Pip Durell was working as a stylist at British Vogue, she often struggled to find a good button-down at a reasonable price. There wasn’t this middle ground of £100 shirting that was well cut and in a beautiful material. When it came to her own style, she wasn’t really interested in what was in and what was out – she was only interested in wearing jeans and a masculine shirt. So she decided to make her own.
Launched in 2017, With Nothing Underneath’s classic and boyfriend shirts have gained a cult following for their crisp fit and democratic prices (from £95). Made in predominantly female-run factories in Portugal and Turkey, in natural fabrics such as organic cotton-poplin and brushed cotton and wool, they’re designed with practicality in mind. “We don’t do sales, so we have to get a high sell-through, which means we make sure we’re being smart,” says Durell. It’s a winning formula: last year, WNU’s revenues grew by 130 per cent, buoyed by its bestselling white poplin style and collaborations with brands such as Collagerie and, yes, the Financial Times. Customers often make repeat purchases and only 17 per cent of items are returned, compared to the industry average of about 30 per cent. “There’s a lot of crap out there and people are sick of it,” says Durell. “Just because someone can’t afford designer – myself included – doesn’t mean they don’t want quality clothing.” The brand is now expanding into other categories. Its logo baseball cap has already found its way onto actors Florence Pugh and Nicholas Galitzine; its matching boxers and summer sarongs are ideal for holidays. Last year, it debuted a high-waisted, wide-leg trouser style inspired by Charlotte Rampling, and this month it will introduce a blazer. Made from a grey herringbone wool, it evokes the androgynous elegance of women such as Lauren Hutton, with sharp, slightly padded shoulders, generous lapels and horn buttons