Artificial intelligence is upending the fashion industry

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In the wake of ChatGPT, the next frontier for computer-generated content is fashion photography. Gayle MacDonald explores whether the industry is ready to let AI get behind the lens

Canadian fashion photographer Chris Nicholls recently conducted an experiment on Instagram where he posted 10 images of a young woman wearing a series of Baroque costumes and sporting some very strange headwear.

Chris Nicholls created this AI-generated photo using prompts including "beautiful Somalian model" and "chiaroscuro lighting."“I’m conflicted,” says Nicholls, who for the past four decades has photographed some of the most famous people in the world including Kate Moss, Claudia Schiffer, Olivia Wilde and Taylor Swift. “The software is still fairly clunky and, at times, behaves like a toddler, jumping all over the map like a kid in a candy store.

“That train has already left the station. If you’re 22 and you want to be in the fashion industry, my advice is get on this as fast as possible because it’s what fashion companies are going to want.”One New York-based model and futurist agrees. This AI photo illustration’s prompts included ‘White Sands New Mexico’ and ‘fashion photograph depicting fashion designs by Paco Rabanne,' who was known for incorporating metals and futuristic elements in his work.The fashion industry is already moving beyond physical reality. During Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January, French sunglass brand Vuarnet relied on generative AI to create a look book. Retailers such as Replicant and DressX sell digital-only clothes.

What does all this mean for the future of fashion? Koukoravas sums it up in two words: big opportunities. “No industry has the luxury of staying the same, or even evolving slowly these days,” he says. “I empathize with those people working in fashion who are fearful of losing their jobs to AI. But those fears have been expressed before. They are the same fears painters had when photography came along. That film photographers had when digital came about, and that professional photographers had when everyone started carrying an iPhone.

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