How the Contemporary Market Got Its Groove Back

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The 'contemporary' moniker used to have a negative connotation for fashion labels, but a new class of buzzy brands at approachable price points has helped change that:

Bringing under-the-radar names into the fold adds a "discovery" factor to shopping the site, which appeals to both new customers and seasoned luxury clientele, says Net-A-Porter's Global Buying Director Elizabeth von der Goltz: "What makes these collections exciting for new shoppers is the fact that they have an accessible price point, are new names in the fashion industry, yet still deliver such strong, distinct design aesthetic.

The test since has been keeping prices around the same level, since even a relatively small fluctuation — to cover more expensive fabric, for instance, or a more detail-intensive design — can be the difference between keeping a customer and losing them to a competitor. E-commerce shoppers, she's found, are particularly price-sensitive, which she reasons is probably because it's harder to part with money when you haven't tried something on in real life. They also tend to gravitate towards the brand's signatures, like colorful stripes and ruffled details — "things that look more interesting online," she explains.

At the contemporary level, brands can speak to the customer where they are, which today is largely on social media. And with prices that aren't prohibitive, a shopper can buy a dress, post it on Instagram, and still have enough left over for a new pair of sneakers to show off in her next post. Her followers are also far more likely to follow suit if they can afford to do so.

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