‘We have to rethink the industry’: fine dining’s future in doubt as Noma calls it a day

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Closure of ‘world’s best restaurant’ raises questions over future of such rarefied – and expensive - fine dining establishments

f what tickles your tastebuds for supper is duck brain served in the skull, edible pine cones, sweetbreads in reindeer moss and dried plum and pheasant heart followed by a berry-leather and black-garlic beetle, you’d better get a move on.

, the year it also won its third Michelin star, chef René Redzepi’s temple of Nordic gastronomy is to become a food lab.Exactly what that means in practice no one knows, but the move has sent shock waves through the world of haute cuisine Hailed as one of the world’s most influential and visionary chefs, Redzepi said he and Noma’s nearly 100 staff spent “10% of our time on innovation, and 90% on production”, adding: “I’d like to reverse that, so we spend most of our time challenging ourselves and the food, thinking new thoughts.”To achieve that, Redzepi said, Noma 3.0 – as the new project will be known – needed “a new financial foundation”.

A Noma spokesperson said the move was aimed at building “a lasting organisation” in which “our team can thrive”. Noma Projects would expand with “many more products and larger volumes over the coming years”, she said, backed up by “a pioneering test kitchen and lab dedicated to groundbreaking work in food”.

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