Serving Filipino food with equal parts individuality and respect for tradition. Reimagining the food of his childhood with Northern California’s best ingredients.over 7,000 islands in the Philippines. Despite that sprawling diversity, some dishes, like this quick-cooking stew, are cooked everywhere, explained Francis Ang. “It’s called ginataang kalabasa—and everyone does it a bit differently.
Sourcing just-caught head-on shrimp can be trickier in the U.S. than in the Philippines, but Mr. Ang says West Coast spot prawns make an excellent substitute, and regular shrimp from your fishmonger or grocer will also do. Or, he added, cooks can make this dish vegetarian by leaving out the shrimp altogether. “We often serve it that way at banquets,” he added. Should you prefer that route, just swap the shrimp paste for a dash of turmeric and vegan fish sauce or plain soy sauce.
While the flavors are complex, the technique couldn’t be more straightforward. Simply put all the ingredients—save the shrimp—into a pan and braise until the flavors meld and you’re left with a silky sauce the consistency of melted ice cream. To preserve their tenderness, add the shrimp at the very end, simmering just until curled and blushing pink. Then dollop heaping spoonfuls over rice, to sop up every last drop.
Cook at a steady, gentle simmer until squash is fork-tender and sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Add shrimp and simmer until just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Serve over steamed rice.