The Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2023 size inclusivity report

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. voguebusiness analysed all the AW23 shows and presentations, to determine the level of size-inclusive representation. The conclusion? There’s a long way to go:

Matchesfashion.com has been working on expanding its size range. Its core size range is XS to XL or UK 6 to 14, with everything outside of that on either end included in its extended sizing range. For spring/summer 2022, the luxury multi-brand retailer increased its purchases of extended sizes by 40 per cent year-on-year, with sales for those sizes growing 60 per cent. It reflects “the demand for a broader range of sizing in luxury fashion”, says head of womenswear Liane Wiggins.

Currently, 65 per cent of ready-to-wear brands at Matchesfashion.com offer inclusive sizing across the total edit. The retailer has worked with brands such as Zimmerman and Erdem exclusively to extend their size range, alongside brands such as Chloé, The Vampire’s Wife, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Roksanda. Extended sizes will be available for its spring/summer 2023 exclusive capsule with Cecilie Bahnsen, and the retailer is working to offer a wider range for autumn/winter 2023.

Siriano’s business is fully direct-to-consumer now. “I’ve noticed a huge change in how our customers are shopping. Because we have such a range of sizes, we’re getting such a range of diverse women coming in because they know there’s going to be something they can try on. That’s the biggest thing, because going shopping when you’re different shapes and sizes or just in general can be a challenge.”

O’Dwyer is already stocked at Ssense and H.Lorenzo and hopes to add more stockists next season. But it’s a long road. “I’ve sometimes been, like, a bit frustrated because we’ll put all this time into a great grading for a size that then never gets bought,” she says. “Buyers sometimes buy all the small sizes and none of the bigger sizes – it can be quite disheartening.” Last season, however, one retailer did buy up to a size 20, which gave her hope.

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