Beauty Industry Ramps Up Quest for Longevity

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Estée Lauder, Dior, L’Oréal & more are investing in skin longevity with reverse-aging technology.

becoming key components of its development. Now, the convergence of these tenets and scientific advances are catapulting the industry into new directions, including ““ has been emerging in the mainstream for the past three to five years, and now it’s really reaching a critical mass of real applications that are coming into the clinic, into the market,” said Marco Quarta, chief executive officer ofHow William P.

“There is an acceleration of the science in this field,” said Virginie Couturaud, scientific communications director at Parfums Christian Estée Lauder, whose scientists began exploring sirtuins, aka longevity proteins, 15 years ago, revealed its Skin Longevity platform in December 2023. The brand put together a longevity expert collective culling multiple disciplines to educate consumers to reconsider how they approach skin care and lifestyle.

“The solution is drugs that specifically can remove those senescence cells,” said Quarta, referring to senolytics. The first generation of these, from five years ago, lacked safety and selectivity. His sites are on cosmetics, too. One of Robedo’s lead programs going into the clinic this year is for dermatological chronic inflammatory skin conditions.

Beiersdorf’s partnership with Rubedo specifically centers on the study of new compounds with senolytic and anti-inflammatory properties. Beiersdorf is not new to longevity. It has since 2008 been working with an interdisciplinary team on reactivating silenced youth genes to turn back skin cells’ biological clocks using epigenetics.

“There is a biological clock in the cells,” he continued, and that can be reversed. “There are some things that you can do outside of the DNA and actually influence the DNA of that cell to rejuvenate.” He plans to invest tens to hundreds of millions of dollars in upcoming years to research how to rejuvenate everything related to hair, graying and loss.

“It’s been shown that mitochondrial functional decline is one of the key culprits of aging,” said Rinsch. The company began with oral nutrition products that stimulate mitochondria’s recycling. Its patented Mitopure, which unlocks a precise dose of Urolithin A, helps with mitochondria health in muscle.

“I don’t see us as an antiwrinkle cream. It is more of a product that’s for the health and longevity of your skin,” said Rinsch. “Wrinkles are healthy.”“We see a reduction following exposure to UV light,” said Rinsch, as an example. So it works on both intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. Ingredients acting on various mechanisms in skin cells are more efficient than antiaging molecules, she explained.

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