Hopes of recovery in clothing industry torn by new wave of lockdowns

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Retailers are keeping volumes small and lead times tight, and many are seeking later payment terms

Lisbon/Dhaka — Clothing retailers in Europe and America sit on excess inventory and cut back on spring orders. Sourcing agents face late payments. Garment factories in Bangladesh are on the rack.

In an indication of the scale of the backlog, consultancy McKinsey says the value of unsold clothing worldwide, in stores and warehouses, ranges from €140bn-€160bn, more than double normal levels. “Most of the brands now are pretty tight on shipping and the factors are very tight. I think everyone was very conservative with their purchasing,” he says. “I know many have been slow paying. That is for sure.”

Fifty factories surveyed by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association say they have received 30% fewer orders than usual this season, as pre-Christmas lockdowns in much of Europe followed by another clampdown in January hit their businesses hard. Miran Ali, who represents the Star Network, an alliance of manufacturers in six Asian countries, and himself owns four factories in Bangladesh, faces similar problems.

With store closures threatening to carry into summer, some retailers are attempting to sell off as much of their excess stock as possible before placing new orders, textile recycling and resale firm Parker Lane Group says

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