The first Mexican taco stand to get a Michelin star is a tiny business where the heat makes the meat

Customers line up to order at the Tacos El Califa de León taco stand, in Mexico City, Wednesday, May 15, 2024. Tacos El Califa de León is the first ever taco stand to receive a Michelin star from the French dining guide.

In fact, other than perhaps one street food stand in Bangkok, Thailand, El Califa de León is probably the smallest restaurant ever to get a Michelin star: Half of the 100 square-foot space is taken up by a solid steel plate grill that's hotter than the salsa. He tosses a pinch of salt over it, squeezes half a lime on top, and grabs a soft round of freshly rolled tortilla dough onto the solid metal slab to puff up.

The heat is one of the few secrets Rivera Martínez would share. The steel grill has to be heated to an astounding 680 degrees . Asked how it felt to get a Michelin star, he said in classic Mexico City slang, “está chido ... está padre,” or “it's neat, it's cool.”

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