Some time before “street food” became a Thing in London, Bill Oglethorpe set up a cheese toastie and raclette stall at Borough Market. At first, that was an occasional table outside Neal’s Yard Dairy, where he worked as a cheesemonger and from where he sourced his cheese — notably the crucial combination of punchy Montgomery’s cheddar and Ogleshield, which is a British raclette-like oozy cheese named after him.
Later Kappacasein morphed into an always-busy trolley in the Market, and more recently a permanent stall at the top of Stoney Street. In 2005, the esteemed American food writer Ruth Riechl described Bill’s sandwich as ‘the Platonic ideal of toasted cheese’; and it remains towards the top of London’s on the go pantheon. His excellent raclette — with potatoes and pickles — now showcases London Raclette, a cheese Bill now makes close by at his Bermondsey dairy.
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