Just before midnight, floodlit rows of heavy lorries block the streets around Smithfield market in the City of London. Their open doors reveal rows of dangling pig carcasses waiting to be hooked on to overhead rails and delivered to the butchers inside. Well-dressed passengers in black taxis — the last of the daytime City dwellers — wait in the log jam of trucks.
The market’s “heyday” was as “a global import market for imperial London” in the interwar years, Hanlon said. Postwar changes to trade, and the rise of supermarkets, led to a “pretty dramatic decline from the late 1960s”, he added. Traders and butchers predict the closure of Smithfield will mean even fewer independent sellers feeding London. “It is quite catastrophic for us.
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