Growing Up at 99 Ranch Market

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“For the children of immigrants growing up in the 90s (like me), 99 Ranch was a place for us to connect to the food of our culture. But sometimes it was also a source of otherness and ridicule.”

The tanks are stacked one on top of the other, and each one holds a cluster of live seafood: catfish, tilapia, Dungeness crabs, lobster, mussels, clams, eels. My mom points to a fish cowering in a corner. “Never buy a live one that isn’t moving a lot. And make sure the one you want is the one they actually take out—they can trick you.” It's the type of advice that's useful in a small coastal village, or maybe a commercial fish market.

99 Ranch was a place for us to connect to the food of our culture, sure. But sometimes it was also a source of otherness and ridicule. For the children of immigrants growing up in the 90s , the story was different. 99 Ranch was a place for us to connect to the food of our culture, sure. But sometimes it was also a source of otherness and ridicule.

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