NYFW Recap: The Contemporary Market, Take 2

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The contemporary market is a growing category at the shows, here is a recap of designers to know.

, so the Guyanese-American designer attempted to pinpoint a more signature look for spring, undergoing a bit of a rebrand in the process. Along with a bolder type-face logo came a bolder print story to match — palm leaves and abstract brushstrokes recalling family boat rides down the Demara River covered her lineup of smocked drop-waist dresses. More intriguing, though, were the quarter-zips, board shorts and anorak jackets, all outfitted with military pockets and elasticated drawstrings.

Denim is growing, and for a brand that is known for its pant offering, it’s a no-brainer that it is resonating with their customer. Whites and ivory, a trend of the season, came on an eyelet dress and suiting. Knits, another core category for the brand, had buttons up the sleeve, opened up to show a bit of skin, giving the piece a variety of ways to be styled.

The lineup featured classic Tcherassi dress silhouettes, including her ever-present penchant for cutout details, dresses with backless opening details, exposed shoulders and dresses with exaggerated sleeve volume — adding a deeper layer of femininity. Turk has started to incorporate more sustainable fabrics into her collection, including wood pulp viscose for suiting, and Ecovero organdy on volume pieces like the fuchsia billowy strapless dress with a taffeta look.In the middle of the pandemic DVF took some time to reset its business model, aiming to offer a more balanced price point and appeal to a younger generation of customers. Key to the pivot was integrating Shopify into its direct-to-consumer e-commerce business.

Elsewhere, velvet bike shorts, funny boleros with sleeves of varied lengths and sarong skirts edged in fringe could have used a sharper viewpoint. The coolest looking piece, though, was an asymmetric molded leather corset emblazoned with a dragon motif — a collaboration between Shui and German fashion designer Marina Hoermanseder.

“I still, after all these years, am in awe of this city and lucky to have the honor of being able to show in Wagner Park. Lady Liberty as a backdrop with a beautiful sunset just doesn’t get any better. The city and state both helped to make that happen,” the designer said of her outdoor show location.Shane Gonzales has been a fan of the band Him since he was 7 years old, obsessing over the music and drawing the group’s logo on his homework.

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