Potent life lessons from Germany’s Finance Ministry

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It’s not on the tourist map, but the Berlin HQ of the most powerful finance ministry in Europe embodies momentous times past and present.

Returning to Berlin as the war in Ukraine stretches into its fifth month and reports on the bombardment and destruction of historically important and beautiful cities in eastern Ukraine fill the news, it is shocking to think that such madness and destruction could be and is back in Europe.

Completed in 1936, the Reich Aviation Ministry has been described as a prime example of the Nazis’ ‘intimidation architecture’. A section of the huge Detlev Rohwedder Building, which has been home to the Ministry of Finance since 1999. It doesn’t appear on tourist maps, but it can be found on the corner of Wilhelm and Leipziger strassen – just a block west of Checkpoint Charlie and across Niederkirchnerstrasse from the much-visited former site of the Gestapo and SS headquarters, the Topography of Terror museum.

Hitler’s principal architect, Albert Speer, was in charge of the megalomaniac Germania project. Its sheer scale can best be judged by the fact that Tempelhof was to be a small component of the overall plan. The Luftwaffe building was one of the few Nazis structures in Berlin that, although damaged by Allied bombers, remained largely intact when the war finished. At first it was used by the Soviet military administration together with the German Economic Commission, which became the main administrative body of the Soviet-occupied zone. With the founding of East Germany in October 1949, it housed the new communist state’s government departments.

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