, who tracks down ultra-high-end, rare runway pieces for global superstars, advises The Row, and curates the vintage suites at Printemps. “The codes and DNA of Gucci are very strong, and that film showcased raincoats, overcoats, travel bags, weekend bags that never feel old.”
There’s also the matter of Tom Ford retiring just as Gen Z is discovering ’90s and Y2K fashion. Demand for pieces from his tenure – primarily the breakthrough AW95 collection; SS96; AW96; and his swansong, AW04 – is very high. “Along with Galliano, it’s the most sought-after clothing in vintage fashion,” says Blanchet, an alumna of Vestiaire Collective. “That era was so sexy, empowering, elegant. A defining moment for the house; game-changing for fashion.
, who recently sold a preloved 2004 black dragon-clip dress for £2,000 . When the more iconic gowns from 2004 come to market – very rarely – they can surpass $20,000, Speer says. FW95 patent-leather pumps with horsebit detail, by Tom FordRecently, a rare, limited-edition SS04 crystal-studded version of the– introduced by Ford in 2003 and relaunching this autumn – sold for $9,995 on 1stdibs, but generally the vintage prices are “amazingly reasonable”, Blanchet says.
According to Taylor, Gucci has been “consistently under-appreciated” compared with other luxury brands: even older icons, including the “Jackie” handbag as well as the Bamboo top handle, introduced in 1947, are relatively accessible . She also points to the classic ’60s version of the Bamboo bag, which is “high on my wants list”, she says. “It’s beautifully made and still affordable.
Perhaps not for long. For Speer, this twist-lock, top-handle style is becoming more important in the context of quiet luxury. “During logomania, you couldn’t shift them,” she says. “Now, their clean lines and no-logo brand identifier make them very sought after.” Bonhams US has a double-lock ’60s version with the iconic web stripe coming up for sale in November , while 1stdibs is asking nearly €10,000 for a rare SS95 take.