From Sharp Suits to Startup Merch, HBO’s ‘Industry’ Is a Spectacle of Menswear

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Costume designer Laura Smith on the psychology behind the suiting and startup merch on the hit HBO show.

Aspiring First Gentleman Doug Emhoff Needs to Up His Style Game—Here’s How, but the power of the suit transcends politics. Suiting writ large is, whether we realize it , a perfect conduit for larger conversations about the world and how we move through it.

The shirt that he’s wearing is Lumi merchandise. It was really important to show how this startup has spentmuch money on merch and as he walks around the room, people are wearing all the different iterations of the company merchandise to show that he’s picked up one idea, thrown it away, then picked up another. There have been loads of launches and this t-shirt he’s wearing is the one he’s picked for that day’s presentation.

The way I approached this was I broke the men into a few different groups of people. So you have the ones who have already arrived, so to speak – and that’s Lord Norton, Henry, Charles, Otto. They’re all in a group of people who feel at ease everywhere they go, whether that’s walking into the House of Parliament, a grand country house, or. Whereas people like Robert, or Eric—they’re less certain because they’re trying to appear and pass as something else.

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