In praise of mass-market American tacos

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In the end, whether someone considers a food authentic says more about their own biases than about what is on their plate

Save time by listening to our audio articles as you multitaskA taco, these diners will explain , consists of paired soft tortillas, typically made of corn. These are wrapped around a modest amount of meat, usually braised, with a sprinkling of chopped raw onion, a couple of sprigs of coriander and a squirt of salsa—the spicier the better. Made well, these are indeed delicious, with an almost Japanese austerity that lets every ingredient shine and complement each other.

What innumerable Americans know as a taco—a hard-shell tortilla that comes in boxes on grocery shelves, stuffed to bursting with ground meat cooked in mass-market seasoning, topped with orangey mass-produced cheese, iceberg lettuce, tomatoes and mild salsa from a jar—bears little relation to this “real thing”. So, the authenticity-policing diners argue, it should be shunned and mocked.

This is a joyless way to eat. Chubby, crackly American tacos may be unknown in Culiacán or Toluca, but they taste good. They may well seem “inauthentic” in Mexico, but they are deeply authentic in the minds and memories of millions in America. Korean tacos—tortillas filled with Korean-seasoned barbecued meat and kimchi—are also little known in Mexico. But they emerged authentically from the marriage of Korean and Mexican cultures and cuisines in multicultural Los Angeles.

That is how food develops. Being the original progenitor of a recipe may merit some bragging rights at the dining table, but nothing more. Legend has it that Marco Polo brought noodles back to Italy from China: that does not make spaghetti just bastardisedexcept in the way that all foods are hybrid and derivative. Lebanese emigrants brought lamb cooked upright on a rotating spit with them to Mexico.

That exemplifies the common but regrettable belief that non-European food should be cheap and served in tatty surroundings—even when the cuisines in question are intricate and delicious. .This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline "The unreal McCoy"

 

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The title of this article alone is making me consider getting a subscription finally.

The ancestor of tacos is the original Adana and Urfa wrap, which is the rich cuisine of Turkey. 😜

EvacuateAUAFStudents

It is more likely a kind of Shandong Pancake than sth else of anywhere.

You guys are on to something. The typical American cuisine consist of fast, easy, cheap, and processed. If it’s authentic it’s not American (quantity quality) 👍🏾. That’s why you see things like a hot dog being one of America favorite foods

Stop hiring interns to write articles. This is stupid

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American minds are fxxk! What do they know!

You don't know nothing about tacos either... 🤷🏻‍♂️😃

😭

So true. I have a mean Old El Paso taco routine using generous helpings of prime ground beef and gruyere cheese. Heavenly.

choucroute alsacienne

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