The little-known grape varieties powering Australia’s wine industry

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In his new book, the Financial Review drinks writer explains how new wines and styles since 2000 have been good for growers and great for drinkers.

The last time there was a referendum in Australia, in November 1999 on whether we should become a republic, I spent half of the morning tasting sangiovese – and most of the afternoon indulging in a five-course Italian long lunch cooked by Stefano de Pieri at the Grand Hotel in Mildura, Victoria., that momentous lunch was the precursor to what became, in 2001, the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show .

Now, as we head towards another referendum, I’ve also written a book about the history of the AAVWS and the influence it’s had on this country’s vinous landscape., the book charts the progress of the dozens of new grape varieties and wine styles that have established themselves here over the past two decades.

Why have I nailed my colours so firmly to the alternative variety mast like this? Well, partly it’s self-interest: I’m an unquenchably curious wine drinker who is obsessed with tasting new things and exploring new flavours. But I also firmly believe that broadening the choice of grape varieties available to growers and winemakers in Australia can help build a viable industry heading into an increasingly challenging future.Corrina Wright, left, with fellow winemaker Rebekah Richardson last year.

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