Not all imitation crab is created the same. Just ask Kenzo Yamada. Also known as Yama-san to locals, he opened Yama Seafood market in San Gabriel in 1984 and started making California rolls 20 years ago. By paying attention to every detail, from the type of imitation crab to the ripeness of the avocado to the crunchiness of the cucumber, Yama Seafood has created the ultimate California roll. It's big , creamy , has a high faux-crab-to-rice ratio and is always consistent.
Victor Humay, assistant general manager , oversees every aspect of making rolls, which include not just the California kind but also salmon and avocado, spicy tuna, unagi and more — all displayed in the refrigerated cases that line one store wall. “We make the last roll of the day just like the first roll of the day,” Humay said. “Making every single roll the same, that’s my thinking.” The seafood counter is the hub of the store.