Approaching Sustainability as a Mass-Market Retailer: A Case Study With Walmart and Asos

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Maybe you've seen the buzz about Asos's new so-called 'circular' collection. But you'll understand its sustainability efforts best if you contrast them with those of another mass market retailer, Walmart:

One launched a small "circular" collection with much fanfare, the other started employing organic and recyclable fabrications and barely told anyone. Which approach works best?Author:Whitney BauckPublish date:Sep 29, 2020After decades of being written off as a fringe issue, sustainability has taken center stage, and now everybody from Kanye West to Coach wants in on it.

Circular design, which has been something of a holy grail for fashion in recent years, entails creating products that never go out of use or end up in a landfill, because they're constantly being made into something new. It's a worthy goal, and one that's been pursued by a range of brands known for making sustainability central to their ethos, from Maggie Marilyn to Eileen Fisher.

Any circularity, then, would have to come from someone else finishing off the circle — but a circle that doesn't make it all the way back to the beginning is just a wavy line. In other words, it's the old linear economy, with an infusion of recycled materials at the beginning and a hope that someone else will step in to close the loop. That infusion of recycled materials is a good step, but it's not the same as genuinely circular design. Claims to the contrary are misleading at best.

In an email to Fashionista, a Walmart rep declined to add much more detail about what Free Assembly's "commitment to sustainability" means, simply saying "we will share sustainable aspects of the line as they relate to individual products at point of sale.

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