We sit down at one of the side tables – the long communal table in the middle soon starts to fill up with regulars – where a carafe of water with lemon and mint, glasses and paper napkins are brought to us. It is pretty smart service for such a casual environment. You can wander around the store as you wait for your food, and there is plenty to tempt, from dried pasta, large jars of anchovies and sea spaghetti to organic vegetables, McLoughlin’s meat and natural wine.
We’ve also ordered a cheese toastie and a breakfast bap , because there is clearly a good reason why the all-day breakfast features just two things, this sandwich and overnight oats. A brioche bap, I soon discover, is a most wonderful vehicle for a perfectly fried egg that oozes a golden stream over an admirably thick slice of Crowe’s Farm streaky bacon. A dollop of Dijon mayo brings the whole thing together – not like it needed much help, just another way to have eggs and add even more flavour.
The cheese toastie, with molten Gruyère, Comté and Parmesan on rye sourdough, is delicious, if not quite a match for the pocket-rocket breakfast bap. I don’t check around the room to see how many of these are being ordered, but I’ve no doubt they must be popular. Cakes are simple, a carrot cake with little bits of candied fruit and cranberries on top, and a Claudia Roden-style gluten-free orange and almond cake.Warehouse is the sort of place you could while away your time quite happily, for coffee, a snack or lunch. Alice Mellon, who heads up the kitchen, is a competent force. Having worked at Hang Dai and Green Bench Café, she brings a sense of both places with her, and there are plans for a menu featuring pies.
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