When Shai Eisenman and her team at Bubble Skincare launched an exfoliating serum in the US this year, they did something unusual: they advised some of their core customers not to buy it.
The shift has forced brands to come up with a playbook to engage with a demographic that was barely interested in these products a year ago – and to the adults who buy them most of the items. Companies are also navigating the potential legal risks of marketing to children. The shift is boosting companies that are popular among the group. Demand for Sol de Janeiro’s lotions and $US38 body sprays have helped push up shares of its parent company, L’Occitane International, by 40 per cent this year. That has made it among the best-performing personal-care stocks globally.Shares in e.l.f. Beauty, whose $US8 skin toners and $US13 face creams are popular with teens, have almost doubled in the past year.
“What is troubling about this interest is how much consumerism is being pushed,” says Ivy Lee, a board-certified dermatologist in Pasadena, California, and “the unspoken message that a complex and expensive skin-care regimen is needed”. Lee is seeing more young patients with skin irritation and breakouts caused by using too many products.a list of more than a dozen of its products it said were safe for kids, one commenter responded: “NONE of this is appropriate for children.
The big cosmetics conglomerates are also wary of jumping on the tween skincare bandwagon because – as publicly traded companies with teams of attorneys – they’re more aware than some of the beauty upstarts of the potential legal pitfalls, according to executives and lawyers. Spokeswomen for L’Oréal and Estée Lauder declined to comment.
Brands marketing to those under 13 face even stricter standards, including age restrictions on platforms such as TikTok and Instagram in the US.
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