At a Quiet Texworld, the Industry Prepares for Environmental Compliance

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At a quiet Texworld fair, the industry discussed environmental compliance as the main themes cited were global environmental urgency and the economic downturn.

— Held amid the suspense of two rounds of parliamentary elections that risked a far-right majority government in France, theOrganizers said the upcoming Olympics also may have discouraged international visitors from traveling to Paris, fearing chaos.

After an initial slow start to this season, the team was on the hunt for transitional pieces: fall looks in summer fabrics for the U.K. high street. Others were less upbeat. “Spain is dead, Europe is dead,” declared Christina Pastaeiro from the fashion design team of Purificacion Garcia as she browsed for summer fabrics. While too early to gauge the success of the Argentine men’s and womenswear label’s U.S. openings, sales are fantastic in the Middle East, she said, despite the turmoil in the region. “Fashion is their priority. In Europe, fashion is not a priority anymore. People are more cautious,” Pastaeiro said.

Seeking to help professionals navigate that paradox amid rising raw material prices and upcoming environmental legislation, which has already seen companies fined for noncompliance of the Extended Producer Responsibility in Europe, Texworld held a series of conferences on the implementation of the digital product passport and priorities and timelines of emerging EU regulations through to 2026.

Liu said the fact that overproduction is the number-one contributor to environmental impact had been left out of the EU regulatory framework. “The reason people buy more is there’s so much available at cheap prices,” she said. “A lot of the manufacturing companies are just saying, ‘We’ll see what happens.’”

Among busier stands at the Ethiopia and Rwanda showcase, Pink Mango, the Rwanda-based manufacturer of puffer jackets for mass market, also presented its own brand, a collection of hand-embroidered, handwoven traditional textiles featuring everything from cultural symbols of Ghanaian royalty or feminine energy from 12 designers across countries in Africa.“The fair has definitely been much quieter than other editions,” said founder and chief executive officer Maryse Mbonyumutwa.

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