Could the Pandemic Reshape the Restaurant Business?

A waiter serves drinks outside a restaurant on July 21 in New York City. Photo: Jeenah Moon/Getty Images Few parts of the economy have seen their business models take a harder hit during the pandemic than restaurants and bars. And few industries have seen their preexisting problems laid more bare. I spoke with Grub Street staff writer Chris Crowley about the economic crisis facing the food and drink world, and what might come after.

Bills and rent are still piling up. According to a survey published by the NYC Hospitality Alliance in June, four out of every five restaurants didn’t pay full rent that month. And the tone is no less dire now for people I talk to in the industry. Some have come back to work and are making less money, and many don’t necessarily have health insurance. Plus you have undocumented workers for whom all these problems are much worse.

I do think the writing is on the wall — tons of places are going to close without another cash infusion. But I think another infusion like this has to take into account those employees, right? If we’re bringing back businesses, but it requires a financial sacrifice on the part of people who didn’t make much in the first place — during an economic crisis and pandemic — I think we have to reexamine that.

Chris: We get to something important here, which is that the restaurant industry as it exists is built upon all these things — the relationship we, as consumers, have with restaurants is a result of the work standards as much as anything else. I’ve talked to bartenders — successful ones, ones who run popular cocktail bars and are frequently in the media — who didn’t see doctors for years.

grubstreet chrisecrowley Why does nobody sue Cuomo for not allowing indoor dining indefinitely? NYC is in freefall and he does nothing to stop it! Nor does DeBlasio. We had only three deaths yesterday!!! Hardly any cases!

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