A restaurant critic’s guide to the new Pullman Market at Pearl

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Mezquite Nouvelles

A day in the life of Pullman Market, from coffee in the morning to a nightcap at the bar, with breakfast, lunch and dinner in-between.

To watch an operation as ambitious as Pullman Market, as big as Pullman — as Pearl as Pullman — is to watch San Antonio dive into the trenches of the culture wars. It’s too invasive, it’s too commercial, it’s too out-of-town. It’s too un-San Antonio.

Mike Sutter's guide to Pearl What’s for breakfast? At breakfast, it’s apparent that while Pullman is a self-contained ecosystem, you still have to deal with the various parts of that system, which means ordering your coffee from one counter, picking up your breakfast sandwich from another counter, getting your pastries at another counter and then paying for those pastries somewhere else altogether. It’s like shopping at little specialty stores in a French village.

San Antonio's Top 25 Restaurants What’s for dinner? In the chaos of Pullman Market, there are places of refuge. Mezquite is one of those places, a cavernous train-station of a room stretching almost three stories high, with warehouse windows, exposed steel braces, tassel chandeliers and towering palms. Focusing on Mexican and Southwestern food inspired by the Sonoran region, Mezquite is one of two full-service restaurants at Pullman, along with the Italian trattoria Fife & Farro.

 

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