The Fall 2023 Contemporary Market at New York Fashion Week

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A growing part of the New York shows, WWD looks at the players and trends in the category.

Derek Lam 10 Crosby opened its fall collection with an unexpected denim look composed of a sleeveless button-up vest with white shearling details over a wide-legged capri jean. New takes on denim have been big drivers at the brand and show how it is constantly evolving, focusing on craft. To that end, the designs of the American Arts and Crafts movement served as the starting point for fall.

Taylor plans to sell several other brands in her store — including accessories — alongside her work, creating a sort of marketplace for her new direct-sales channel, and giving her customer a full 360-look at her world.“It’s rock and sexy — really about that boldness and vibrance,” L’Agence fashion director Tara Rudes Dann said during the brand’s Bowery Hotel-set fall presentation, adding every woman is the brand’s muse. “For this season, it’s about the moment.

The fall collection offered a wide range of casual and dressy styles. Key pieces on the casual side were an olive green bomber jacket accented with a jeweled embroidery and a crushed velvet matching set, while dressier pieces include a silk dress designed in a vintage French floral print and a draped, sequined dress. Siskin explained the outerwear makes up some of the key pieces in the collection, such as a brocade knee-length coat.

“This time I really wanted to honor my background,” Bonaldi said. “All of this craftsmanship and handmade work that you saw on the runway, I did this in my hometown where I have a school, where I teach people how to do this. It’s my story and it’s been my life for more than 20 years, so I think it’s about this because designs evolve, but craftsmanship is like an art. It remains the same, so I think it will be the right time to show people what we can do in Brazil.

 

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