Raoul’s Expands the Family Business, with Revelie Luncheonette

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Earlier this year, the owner of the classic SoHo bistro Raoul’s opened a second place, directly across the street, called Revelie Luncheonette. “If I didn’t know better, I’d believe that it, too, had been around since 1975,” Hannah Goldfield writes.

Revelie’s menu includes a croque-madame and an onion tart that would be right at home on the menu at Raoul’s, if Raoul’s served lunch, plus American diner classics including a B.L.T. and a patty melt.In the past forty years, SoHo has largely transformed, from grungy, affordable artists’ haven to couture mall geared toward tourists. But some things have stayed more or less the same: Raoul’s, for example, the French bistro opened by Alsatian brothers, Serge and Guy Raoul, in 1975.

With the exception of sriracha , an Impossible Burger, and a baby-kale Caesar salad, nothing that comes out of the kitchen adheres to recent trends, or indicates ego or pretension on the part of the chefs, David Honeysett and Moussa Thiam.

Because this is a French restaurant, there is wine; the other night, I paired my roast chicken and coleslaw with a lovely Lambrusco. Because this is a luncheonette, there are milkshakes, made with ice cream from Adirondack Creamery and overflowing from tall soda-fountain-style glasses. The same ice cream is scooped into house-made cream soda or cola, for floats, and packed into sundaes topped with hot fudge, whipped cream, sprinkles, and Luxardo maraschino cherries.

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