A critic and a restaurant face the pandemic over pastries (6 feet apart)

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'I hate the sense of powerlessness, watching the small businesses I write about — the seats of community and hospitality in L.A. — struggle to the brink of financial devastation,' critic BillAddison writes

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Gazing at Manzke’s spread of pastries reminded me of one indie restaurant in particular where I worked, a long-closed place in Seattle called Plenty. In addition to a full-service menu we staged a deli case with photo-ready displays of prepared foods and desserts. In my corner of the kitchen, I iced chocolate cakes, whipped meringues, layered fruit crisps, stirred batters and doughs for muffins and scones, and baked the oversize cookies we sold by the register.

That’s what the restaurant industry faces in 2020: Queries with no answers in a state of emergency. There will be unknowns for months.

 

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