Omar Tate Is Redefining What 'Restaurant' Means

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The Philadelphia chef and artist is creating a community center that will include a supper club, grocery shop, meat market, and café library.

“Honeysuckle pretty much came about by me just noticing the lack of seeing myself and things that represented myself in the food industry,” he says. “From European-focused restaurants to Black-owned and Black-focused restaurants, I wasn't seeing my experience articulated on a plate or things that I found important, personally, represented on plates.”

When COVID-19 hit earlier this year, Tate moved back to his hometown, Philadelphia, and reimagined Honeysuckle as a pop-up takeout experience. “As much as I love doing the [dinner series] pop-up, and I'll do it again, the rigor of putting together theater every night isn't happening right now because of the pandemic,” Tate says. “So I got to strip everything down and then make it about the food and philosophy again.”

Borrowing space from South Philly Barbacoa, the chef swapped silverware and stemware for takeout containers, though his meals remain both personal and expertly-crafted. One in early June, for example, featured raw oysters with a mild pepper chow-chow, grilled strip steak with greens and red peas, and custardy bean pie.

“The food that I make represents Black people from where I come from,” he says. “To exist in this community now, as opposed to New York, to have it here, reflected back to me everyday, just keeps that focus in line.”

 

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