, the Grand Central Market stall run by Kwang Uh and Mina Park serving Korean comfort foods, I’d start with the Andong-jjimdak — Andong-style soy-braised chicken.and not always available. Its braising sauce has a garlicky, gingery sweetness that permeates the chicken to a cellular level and plays up the varying degrees of earthiness in cabbage, mushrooms and potatoes. Glass noodles squiggle in the mix for a little snap.
And the past year, amid all the loss and tumult, has given those of us who still have the privilege of being restaurant criticsAll of which is to say: After nearly 20 years at this I still love reviews more than any other type of writing. I hope you keep reading as I continue to evolve. If you have thoughts about what you’d like to see in reviews, send them to
Great. Now pay piescarcega the same wage you pay BillAddison. They do the same job.
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