This Is What’s Missing in Fashion’s Inclusivity Movement

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Fashion's inclusivity movement is still leaving out the disabled community. Will spring 2022 be the season we see change on the runway?

line in 2017. His fall 2021 Adaptive collection will debut on this year’s Runway of Dreams show on September 9th. “When we launched, no other global lifestyle brand was modifying their clothing for people with disabilities—we were the first,” explains Sarah Horton, a senior director of innovation and integrated marketing at the brand. “The fashion industry focused only on a few aspects of inclusion. There was no existing blueprint—our brand built the model from the ground up.

O’Sullivan-Abeyratne pointed out that between 20 and 26% of the U.S. population has some kind of disability; globally, it’s an estimated 1 billion people, and the number is expected to rise. Mallon said she’s received numerous calls from COVID-19 survivors with long-haul effects that unexpectedly put them in wheelchairs.

Independent designers like Chromat, Collina Strada, and Christian Siriano are indeed a glimmer of hope. News brokethat Siriano was collaborating with Selma Blair on an adaptive line, prompted by Blair’s struggle to find clothes that accommodate her needs after being diagnosed with multiple sclerosis in 2018. Siriano’s team declined to share details or a launch date, but confirmed the project was in the works.

Will this be the season McCharen-Tran’s peers follow her lead? “I’d love to see more disabled people on the runways and in campaigns, and more plus-size models,” she says. “Designers have gotten the memo about casting racially diverse models, but that’s not where it ends—there’s age, gender, ability… And the harder question is who are the designers, who are the owners of the brands? Are they diverse, too? That’s when we will really see true change.

 

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