Pandora Leaves Jewelry Sustainability Group Over Russian Invasion

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Pandora jewelry said it is ending its 12-year membership with the Responsible Jewellery Council, the organization that sets sustainability standards for the jewelry and watch industry, over its failure to suspend the memberships of companies from Russia.

RJC, founded in 2005, has the stated goal to “promote standards that underpin people’s trust in the worldwide jewelry and watch supply chain.” Iris Van der Veken has served as executive director of the organization since 2019. According to its website search engine of more than 1,400 RJC members, there are no Russian Federation companies listed.

However, in a specific company search, Russian diamond miner, Alrosa, came up as a certified RJC member. The largest diamond mining company based on volume has been specifically banned from trading in the U.S., as part of a wide-ranging executive order issued by President Biden banning a number of imports from Russia. The diamond ban caused all business by Alrosa U.S.A. to end. Its U.S. office is scheduled to close on April 30.

In response to an email, Pandora spokesman, Johan Melchior, said the decision to leave RJC came after the company tried to get it to end its relationship with Russian companies but so far hasn’t done so. “We have urged RJC to suspend memberships of affiliated Russian companies and issue a call to action that all members of RJC suspend any business activities with Russia. They have failed to do so and as a consequence we have decided to leave,” Melchior said. “We don’t see how RJC can represent the industry on sustainability and not take a clear stand on the war in Ukraine.”

Pandora designs, manufactures and markets hand-finished jewelry. Its jewels are sold in more than 100 countries through 6,800 points of sale, including more than 2,600 concept stores.

 

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