took over the brand, Martin Margiela used the runway as a place to explore ways of showing clothes that differed from a typical runway, questioning the history and culture of the fashion industry. For AW98/99 Margiela sent out marionettes by stylist Jane How instead of live models, preceded by a short film by Mark Borthwick. By using dolls instead of live humans, Margiela played with the etymological beginnings of the French term for fashion models, ‘mannequin’.
The play begins as each of the characters lie in slumber with the narrator relaying their dreams. Each mannequin in the show was concealed beneath a white bedsheet, gradually unveiled by John’s brother Ryan as he recited the beginning of the play.Attempting to find an alternative to the fashion show, for AW93/94 Martin Margiela decided to release, a short film following seven different women of different ages, nationalities and professions wearing the collection in and around their homes.