Can luxury fashion ever be fully sustainable?

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Luxury consumers care about the environment – but can the industry shape up? Faran Krentcil talks to Marie-Claire Daveu – the doyenne of sustainability behind Gucci, Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent – to find out.

Channing Tatum is hot. One evening in September, he was also a bit overheated. The Hollywood actor was at New York's Four Seasons Hotel as a guest of the Kering Foundation, a charity that was launched to combat gender-based violence. The foundation was marking its 15th anniversary with a September gala that showcased Kering's luxury brands – Gucci, Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent among them.

Daveu isn't just making red-carpet royalty sweat a little – she's also making her competitors in the luxury fashion sector sweat a lot. A 2022 survey by consumer consulting firm Deloitte found that 57% of luxury consumers take sustainability factors into account when they buy a new designer item.

With Pinault's blessing, Daveu began establishing cross-channel systems ensuring the creative, financial, and logistics teams were all on the same team when it came to sustainable practices and regenerative solutions. But the Paris native and former environmental engineer sees herself less as an air traffic controller than a performance coach, training her elite team to create more responsible clothes and accessories.

Moreover, until more materials become fully recycled or upcycled, the rising demand for sustainable goods could actually harm the brand's goals of capping emissions altogether. Industry leader The Business of Fashion reports that Kering's carbon emissions actuallyin 2022, thanks in part to the rising demand from red-hot brands like Bottega Veneta and Gucci.

 

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